Rare 17th C. Enamel Emerald & Diamond Ring. The decorative rings of the seventeenth century were typically characterized by a high gold content, table cut diamonds or colored gems and the use of enamel. The one illustrated here is centrally set with an emerald in 20k yellow gold and shoulders or wings of silver appointed on each side with a trio of diamonds. The table cut emerald (7 by 6.5 mm, 1 carat) is placed in a gold rub over bezel with incised designs along its sides.
The gemstone is set upon a castellated gallery of silver featuring at its side five table cut diamonds and one rose cut. Table cuts are one of the earliest facet structures utilized and they predate the rose or any of the variations of the brilliant cut.
The early diamonds, with flat tops and four narrow and simple facets on the edges, are set in deep bulbous pillows of silver.
Much of the under-gallery is embellished with the original deep teal green enamel punctuated with tiny white enamel dots. The 20k yellow gold shank is a vision of detail and displays abstracted imagery of the clasped or intertwined hands and arms of a male and female swathed in period dress.